Stretchable fabric



July 16, 1968 R. J. MULLER ETAL 3,392,552

STRETCHABLE FABR IC 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 F' led Nov 13, 1964 l 4 in l N N JNVENTORS. H/ENK J. MULLER HNL/TE JOHNSON BY Q M ATTORNEYS July 16, 1968 Filed Nov. 13, 1964 2 Sheets-Sheet Z R/ENK J. MULLER KNU TE JOHNSON AT TOR/VE YS United States Patent O 3,392,552 STRETCHABLE FABRIC Rienk J. Muller, New Hope, and Knute Johnson, Minneapolis, Minn., assignors to Munsingwear, Inc., Minneapolis, Minn., a corporation of Delaware Filed Nov. 13, 1964, Ser. No. 411,033 4 Claims. (Cl. 66-169) This invention pertains to improvements in' knitted fabrics, and more particularly to improvements in stretchable knitted fabrics for use in the manufacture of sporting apparel such as golf shirts and blouses, bowling shirts, and so forth.

The fabric of the present invention is particularly adapted to knitting on a circular knitting machine.

In the manufacture of sportswear, it is exceedingly important that the garment be capable of movement with the wearer, that is, that the garment does not bind. A stretchable fabric is especially well suited for this type of garment. However, an ideal sports garment, such as a golf shirt, must satisfy other criteria besides the ability to follow the movements of the wearer. For example, an ideal golf shirt must lbe cool and comfortable and therefore of light weight. In addition, since the shirt will be worn in warm weather and during periods of rather strenuous physical activity, it must be made of -an absorbent fabric so that it can readily absorb perspiration.

Prior to the present invention, no fabric satisfied all of the above-listed requirements; cotton is lightweight and very absorbent, does not strech any appreciable amount, and hence will not follow the wearers movements; nylon is lightweight, will stretch, however, it has very low absorbency; fabrics made with the relatively new elastic yarns, such as Spandex manufactured by Dupont, are of toovheavy a weight and too hot for use in the manufacture of sportswear. Further, present fabrics, due to their stitch arrangement, have a tendency to creep up or shorten an appreciable amount during horizontal stretching thereof. Such creeping is highly undesirable, particularly in stretchable fabrics utilized in the manufacture of the above-mentioned sportswear.

The present invention, on the other hand, provides a fabric that is stretchable, cool and lightweight, and which is highly absorbent. This fabric is manufactured by combining an elastic yarn, which provides stretchability, with a cotton or other highly absorbent yarn in a manner such that the finished fabric is of a width suitable for the manufacture of cool, lightweight garments. f

Prior art fabrics have been manufactured wherein an elastic yarn has been combined with a non-elastic yarn' to produce the finished fabric. However, due to the restoring force of the elastic yarn, the Weight of these fabrics is too heavy for use in producing sportswear, and furthermore, the prior art fabrics are too expensive to be commercially successful in the sportswear field.

The present invention provides a new and novel fabric construction wherein an elastic yarn is combined with a non-elastic yarn, preferably of high absorbency, to produce a finished fabric which is stretchable and absorbent and which is also of light weight. In addition, the fabric of the present invention can be produced at a cost which is successfully commercially competitive.

Basically, the present invention pertains to a fabric material comprising an elastic yarn knitted into the fabric in the form of a float stitch, the elastic yarn being in a partially stretched condition, and a non-elastic yarn knitted into the fabric in the form of a tuck stitch inside of the float stitch on the back face of the fabric to counteract or balance the restoring force of the elastic yarn thereby increasing the width and decreasing the Weight of the finished fabric. f

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Preferably, the fioat stitches utilized in the fabric of the present invention are formed from both an elastic and non-elastic yarn to provide increased control of the horizontal stretchability of the fabric. While the elastic yarn allows the fabric to be stretched and further provides a restoring force to return the fabric to its original shape when the stretching force is removed, the nonelastic yarn sets a limit on the amount or degree to which the fabric can be stretched. By utilizing both the elastic and non-elastic yarns, the stretch factor of the fabric can be held within desired limits.

It is one object of this invention, therefore, to provide an improved stretchable fabric.

A further object of this invention is to provide a fabric using a combination of elastic and non-elastic yarns.

Another object of this invention is to provide an irnproved fabric material wherein an elastic yarn is knitted into the material in the form of a float stitch on the back face of the fabric and a non-elastic yarn in knitted into the fabric in the form of a tuck stitch inside of the float stitch.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable fabric wherein float stitches of elastic and non-elastic yarns are used to maintain the stretchability of the fabric within desired limits.

Another object of the present invention is the provision of a stretchable fabric in which the combination of stitches is arranged so as to produce a textured pattern on the finished product.

These and other objects of this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon consideration of the accompanying specification, claims, and drawings.

Referring to the drawings, wherein like characters indicate like parts throughout the several views:

FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic representation of the back of the fabric in a stretched condition showing knit stitches;

FIG. 2 is a diagrammatic representation of the back of the fabric in a stretched condition showing knit and float stitches;

FIG. 3 is a diagrammatic representation of the back of the fabric in a stretched condition showing knit and single tuck stitches;

FlG. 4 is a diagrammatic representation of the back of the fabric in a stretch condition showing knit and double tuck stitches;

FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic representation af the back of the fabric of the present invention in a stretched condition;

FIG. 6 is a diagrammatic representation of the back of the fabric of the present invention; and

FIG. 7 is a legend showing the color coding and characters utilized in FIGS. 1-6.

FIGS. 1, 2, 3, and 4 show diagrammatic reresentations of various stitches normally used in the manufacture of knitted fabrics. FIG. 1 shows a row 11, a row 12, and a row 13 each containing a plurality of knit stitches 14, the first knit stitch of row 11 looping the first knit stitch of row 12, the second knit stitch of row 11 looping the second knit stitch of row 12, and so forth.

lFIG. 2 shows a fabric comprising a plurality of rows 15, 16, and 17. Rows 15 and 17 contain a pluraltiy of knit stitches 14, While row 16 contains alternate knit stitches 14 and float stitches 2'1. Reading from the left in FIG. 2, the first and third knit stitches of row 15 loop the first and third knit stitches of row 16, while the second and fourth knit stitches of row 15 loop the second and fourth knit stitches of row 17. The second and fourth stitches of row 16, which are float stitches 21, cross over the second and fout-rh knit stitches 14 of row 15 on the back face of the fabric, or in other words, the second and fourth knit stitches of rOw 15 are inside of the second and fourth float stitches of row 16.4

FIG. 3 shows a fabric comprising a first row 22, a second row 23, and a third row 24. Rows 22 and 24 contain a plurality of knit stitches `14. The first and third stitches of row 23, reading from left to right, are knit stitches 14, while the second and fourth stitches of row 23 are tuck stitches 25.

The first and third knit stitches 14 in each row loops the first and third knit stitches in the next row, respectively. That is, the first knit stitch of row 22 loops the first knit stitch of row while the first knit stitch of row 23 loops the first knit stitch of row 24, etc.

The second and fourth knit stitches of row 22 loop the second and fourth knit stitches of row 24, and similarly the second and fourth stitches of 4row 23, which are tuck stitches, loop the second and fourth knit stitches of row 24.

FIG. 4 shows a fabric comprising a first row 27, a second row 28, a third row 29, and a fourth row 30. Rows 27 and 30 contain knit stitches 14, while rows 28 and 29 contain alternate knit stitches 14 and tuck stitches 25. Counting from left to right in each of the rows of FIG. 4, the first and third knit stitches 14 in each of the rows 27 through 30 loops the first and third knit stitches in the next row, respectively. That is, the first knit stitch of row 27 loops the first knit stitch of row 28 which in turn loops the first knit stitch of row 29, etc. Similarly, the third knit stitch of row 27 loops the third knit stitch of row 28, while the third knit stitch of row 28 loops the third knit stitch of row 29, etc. The second and fourth knit stitches of row 27 loop the second and fourth knit stitches of row 30, and similarly, the second and fourth stitches of rows 28 and 29, respectively, which are tuck stitches, loop the second and fourth knit stitches of row 30. The pattern shown in FIG. 4 wherein the knit stitches of rows 28 and 29 loop the second knit stitch of row 30 is commonly referred to in the art as a double tuck.

The knit stitch shown in FIG. 1 is the basic stitch utilized in the manufacture of knitted fabrics, while the fioat stitch of FIG. 2, the tuck stitch of FIG. 3, and the double tuck stitch of FIG. 4 are used to vary the width, texture, and weight of the knitted fabric.

FIG. 5 shows a knitted fabric, as viewed from the back face, constructed in accordance with the present invention. The knitted fabric of FIG. 5 comprises a plurality of rows 33 through 41, inclusive. Row 33 contains a plurality of knit stitches 14, while rows 34 and 35 each contain alternate tuck stitches 2S and knit stitches 14. Row `36 contains alternate fioat stitches 21 and knit stitches 14. Row 37, like row `33, contains a plurality of knit stitches 14, while rows 38 and 39 contain alterna-te knit stitches 14 and tuck stitches 25. Rows 38 and 39 contain both knit stitches and tuck stitches as do rows 34 and 35; however, by referring to FIG. 5 and the schematic representation in FIG. 6, it can be seen that the pattern arrangement of Vrows 38 and 39 are different from the pattern arrangements of rows 34 and 35. In rows 34 and 35 the first stitch is a tuck stitch followed by a knit stitch, while in rows 38 and 39 the first stitch is a knit stitch followed by a tuck stitch. Similarly, row contains alternate knit stitches 14 and fioat stitches 21, as does previously described row 36; however, as can be seen from the schematic representation in FIG. 6, the pattern ar-rnagement of row 40 is different from that of row 36, row 36 having a fioat stitch followed by a knit stitch, while row 40 has a knit stitch followed by a fioat stitch. Row 41 contains a plurality of knit stitches 14 and corresponds to the row of knit stitches in row 33. A continuation of the fabric would be a repeat of rows 34 through 40.

The first and third knit stitches of row 33 loop the first and third knit stitches 14 of row 37, respectively, as do the first and third stitches of rows 35 and 36, which are tuck stitches 25. The first and third stitches of row 36 are fioat stitches 21 which cross over the first and third tuck stitches 25 of rows 34 and 35. The first and third knit stitches 14 in each of the rows 37, 38, 39, 40, and 4-1 loops the first and third knit stitches in the next row, respectively. That is, the first knit stitch in row 37 loops the first knit stitch of row 38, while the first knit stitch of row 38 loops the first knit stitch of row 39, etc. Similarly, the third knit stitch of row 37 loops the third knit stitch of row 38, while the third knit Stitch of rOW 38 loops the third knit stitch of row 39, etc.

The second and fourth knit stitches 14 of rows 33, 34, 35, and 36 loop the second and fourth knit stitches in the next row, respectively.

The second and fourth stitches of row 37, which are knit stitches 14, loop the second and fourth knit stitches of row 41, respectively. The 'second and fourth stitches of rows 38 and 39, which are each tuck stitches 25, also loop the second and fourth stitches |14 of row 41, respectively. The second and fourth stitches of row 40, which are ioat stitches 21, respectively cross over the second and fourth tuck stitches of rows 38 and 39.

The knit stitches 14 and the iioat stitches 21 of rows 36 and 40 contain a conventional yarn 43, such as cotton, and also contain an elastic or other highly stretchable yarn 44. The elastic -fioat stitches 21 of rows 36 and 40 impart a high degree of stretchability to the fabric. However, the restoring force of the elastic yarn 44 tends to draw the fabric together and to decrease the width of the finished fabric, thereby resulting in a finished fabric that would be too heavy for the manufacture of warm weather sportswear. It is for this reason that the double tuck stitches of rows 34 and 35 and 38 and 39 are inside the lioat stitches 21 of rows 36 and 40, respectively. The double tuck stitches counteract the restoring force of the elastic yarn 44 of the float stitches 21 of rows 36 and 40 and thereby increase the width of the finished fabric, thereby producing a fabric that is cool, lightweight, and yet which is stretchable and will follow the body movements of the wearer. The non-elastic yarn 43 of the iioat stitches 21 of rows 36 and 40 limits the amount of horizontal stretch of the fabric and thereby prevents the elastic yarn 44 from being overstretched.

While the elastic yarn 44 of the fioat stitch 21 allows the fabric to be stretched in a horizontal direction, the relatively short upright legs of the knit stitches 14, which alternate with the float stitches in rows 36 and 40, prevents the fabric from stretching any appreciable amount in the vertical direction,

While the knit and float stitches of rows 36 and 40 are shown comprising both a conventional yarn 43 and an elastic yarn 44, it should be understood that the fabric could also be produce-d by using the elastic yarn 44 only.

The use of the stitch configuration of the present invention allows a stretchable fabric to be produced which combines the high absorbency of yarns such as cotton, with the stretchability of elastic yarns to produce a stretchable fabric that is cool and comfortable, of light weight, which will follow the body movements of the wearer, and yet which is highly absorbent.

It is to be understood that while a specific embodiment of this invention has been disclosed, this is for the purpose of illustration only, and that this invention is to be limited solely by the scope of the appended claims.

We claim as our invention:

1. A stretchable knitted fabric comprising:

(a) a first row of knit stitches;

(b) a second row containing tuck and knit stitches;

(c) a third row containing tuck and knit stitches, the tuck and knit stitches of said third row being in the same pattern as the tuck and knit stitches of said second row;

(d) a fourth row containing fioat and knit stitches of elastic yarn, the tuck stitches of said second and third rows being inside the oat stitches of said fourth row;

(e) a fifth row of knit stitches;

(f) a sixth row containing tuck and knit stitches in a diterent pattern from the tuck and knit stitches of said second and third rows;

(g) a seventh row containing tuck and knit stitches in the same pattern as said sixth row; and

(h) an eighth row containing oat and knit stitches of elastic yarn in a pattern different from the oat and knit stitches of said fourth row, the tuck stitches of said sixth and seventh rows being inside the oat stitches of said eighth row.

2. A stretchable knitted fabric comprising:

(a) a first row of knit stitches;

(b) a second row containing tuck and knit stitches;

(c) a third row containing oat and knit stitches of elastic yarn, the tuck stitches of said second row being inside the iloat stitches of said third row;

(d) a fourth row of knit stitches;

(e) a fth row containing tuck and knit stitches in a different pattern from the tuck and knit stitches of said second row;

(f) a sixth row containing tloat and knit stitches of elastic yarn in a pattern diterent from the oat and knit stitches of said third row, the tuck stitches of said iifth row being inside the float stitches of said sixth row.

3. A stretchable knitted fabric comprising:

(a) a first row of knit stitches;

(b) a second row containing tuck and knit stitches;

(c) a third row containing tuck and knit stitches, the tuck and knit stitches of said third row being in the same pattern as the tuck and knit stitches of said second row;

(d) a fourth row containing float and knit stitches of elastic yarn and oat and knit stitches of non-elastic yarn, the oat and knit stitches of said elastic and non-elastic yarns being in the sarne pattern, the tuck stitches of said second and third rows being inside the oat stitches of said fourth row;

(e) a fifth row of knit stitches;

(f) a sixth row containing tuck and knit stitches in a dilerent pattern from the tuck and knit stitches of said second and third rows;

(g) a seventh row containing tuck and knit stitches in the same pattern as said sixth row; and

(h) an eighth row containing float and knit stitches of elastic yarn and oat and knit stitches of nonelastic yarn, the oat and knit stitches of elastic and non-elastic yarn being in the same pattern but in a pattern different from the float and knit stitches of said fourth row, the tuck stitches of said sixth and seventh rows being inside the float stitches of said eighth row.

4. A stretchable knitted fabric comprising:

(a) a first row of knit stitches;

(b) a second row containing tuck and knit stitches;

(c) a third row containing tuck and knit stitches, the tuck and knit stitches of said third row being of the same pattern as the tuck and knit stitches of said second row; and

(d) a fourth row containing iioat and knit stitches of elastic yarn and oat and knit stitches of non-elastic yarn, the oat and knit stitches of said elastic and non-elastic yarns being in the same pattern, the tuck stitches of said second and third rows being inside the float stitches of said fourth row.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,005,093 6/ 1935 Lieberknecht 66-169 2,315,119 3/1943 Green 66-172 2,323,855 7/1943 Smith 66--172 2,324,036 7/ 1943 Smith 66-180 2,247,343 6/ 1941 Fregeolle 66-172 3,013,420 12/1961 Cormier 66-180 X 3,323,988 7/1943 Fregeolle 66-172 3,016,726 6/ 1962 Lawson 66-202 X 3,052,110 9/1962 Haggie 66-172 3,094,856 6/ 1963 Monday 66-172 3,107,508 10/1963 Holder 66-172 3,159,990 12/1964 Monday 66-180 3,250,092 5/1966 York et al. 66-178 3,098,368 7/1963 Miles 66-178 MERVIN STEIN, Primary Examiner.

R. FELDBAUM, Assistant Examiner. 

1. A STRETCHABLE KNITTED FABRIC COMPRISING: (A) A FIRST ROW OF KNIT STITCHES; (B) A SECOND ROW CONTAINING TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES; (C) A THIRD ROW CONTAINING TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES, THE TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES OF SAID THURD ROW BEING IN THE SAME PATTERN AD THE TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES OF SAID SECOND ROW; (D) A FOURTH ROW CONTAINING FLOAT ANS KNIT STITCHES OF ELASTIC YARN, THE TUCK STITCHES OF SAID SECOND AND THIRD ROWS BEING INSIDE ATHE FLOAT STITCHES OF SAID FOURTH ROW; (E) A FIFTH ROW OF KNIT STITCHES; (F) A SIXTH ROW CONTAINING TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES IN A DIFFERENT PATTERN FROM THE TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES OF SAID SECOND AND THIRD ROWS; (G) A SEVENTH ROW CONTAINING TUCK AND KNIT STITCHES IN THE SAME PATTERN AS SAID SIXTH ROW; AND (H) AN EIGHTH ROW CONTAINING FLOAT AND KNIT STITCHES OF ELASTIC YARN IN A PATTERN DIFFERENT FROM THE FLOAT AND KNIT STITCHES OF SAID FOURTH ROW, THE TUCK STITCHES OF SAID SIXTH AND SEVENTH ROWS BEING INSIDE THE FLOAT STITCHES OF SAID EIGHTH ROW. 